Tung oil with natural resin to add depth to your grain and instantly have an aged look.
Dark Tung Oil
INSTANTLY ADD DEPTH TO YOUR GRAIN FOR AN AGED-ANTIQUE FINISH
The same as our Pure Tung Oil except that we have added a non-toxic naturally occurring resinous hydrocarbon for color. The resin is non-carcinogenic and does not contain any PCB’s. Dark Raw Tung Oil by The Real Milk Paint Company is water and alkali resistant. It resists marring, penetrates well, elastic and unlikely to check. Dark Raw Tung Oil builds quickly, consolidates the wood surface and builds a dark matte wood finish. It should be kept in an airtight container with minimum airspace.
It’s so sticky it actually pulls cracks together as it dries. I put one coat on a wooden lemon reamer that’s splitting and the crack is definitely closing. Thanks so much for tracking down this product.
- Naturally polymerizing wood finish
- Cures by oxidation, not evaporation
- Does not form a glossy finish no matter the number of coats
- Form a flexible waterproof finish
- Resists abrasion and acids
- Does not blister and peel (properly applied)
- Does not mold like linseed oil
- Long shelf life
- Does not darken with time like linseed oil
- Concentrated (thin one to one, doubles the coverage)
- Combined with “Citrus Solvent” makes an all-natural wood finish
- FDA approved for food contact
- Does not go rancid
- 7 to 10 days partial cure, 15 to 30 days full cure
- Can be mixed with any other of our Tung Oil Products (i.e. Pure Tung Oil, Dark Half, Half & Half, Outdoor Defense Oil)
- 8 oz. covers 25 sq. feet
- 16 oz. covers 50 sq. feet
- 32 oz. covers 100 sq. feet
- Gallon covers 400 sq. feet
This is coverage for the oil only and not diluted with Citrus Solvent.
Pure Tung Oil is a finishing product that provides a tough, flexible and highly water-resistant coating for a great wood finish when staining wood. It is classed as a drying oil along with linseed, poppy seed, safflower seed, walnut, soybean, oiticica, and a few other oils. Although it is relatively new to the Western world, tung oil has been known for centuries to the Chinese, and until this century, China was the main source for the oil. It comes from the seed of the tung trees, Aleurites fordii and Aleurites montana, deciduous trees that are very susceptible to frost damage. This vulnerability has restricted the cultivation of the tung trees to China and South America. Tung oil received a widespread application in China: in the building trades as a treatment for both stone and wooden structures; in marine trades as a preservative and water repellant on wooden boats.
It is said to have been introduced to the West by Marco Polo. From the 13th to the 19th century, tung oil had only limited use in the West. In the 19th century, it was adopted by the paint companies to become a major component in paints and varnishes. More recently, tung oil has gained favor over linseed oil for furniture finishing because it is faster drying and does not darken as much with age.
Directions for Use
- The surface should be dusted to remove all loose particles.
- Any wood filling (fillings with real wood dough accept tung oil) or wood staining (water or alcohol stains work best) must be done before the oil is applied.
- For the most thirsty surfaces like old weathered wood, 100-year-old wood floors that were never finished, or unsealed concrete use Dark Tung Oil. In most cases, Dark Tung Oil does need to be thinned in order to absorb into the surface. Dark Half is pre-thinned and we have taken that step upon ourselves for your convenience!
- In colder weather, check the weather to ensure you have a 2 week period minimum after your application of the tung oil where the temperature will be above freezing. You do not want the tung oil to freeze during its application or curing period.
- The first coat of Dark Half should be a liberal one.
- Apply with a natural bristle brush, sponge brush, or a thin foam roller.
- Allow this coat to sit for a minimum of 40 minutes so the oil can soak in. When it soaks into the wood, apply another coat immediately. Continue to apply coats, one after another, until the surface is saturated and stays glossy for a minimum of 40 minutes up to 1.5 hours. If eighty percent of surface area stays glossy, the pores are saturated and this can be considered your final coat.
- Now, wipe down the surface with clean rag material removing any excess oil that is on the surface. Continue to check for any seeping in the next few hours, and rub this off as well. Do not allow standing oil on the surface overnight. Any standing or puddles of oil should be wiped away with clean rags.
- After allowing the oil to soak overnight, apply one more coat to the surface the next day. Let this sit for a minimum of 40 minutes, but no more than 2 hours. Wipe up any oil that has not soaked in. Now the tung oil will be in its curing stage.
- Hang oil-soaked rags up separately to dry.
- For woods with very dense pores (such as Teak, Ipe, Mesquite, etc.) consider thinning tung oil with two parts solvent (Citrus Solvent or Odorless Mineral Spirits) to one part oil. This will help it absorb and penetrate better into the wood.
- The Dark Tung Oil will take 7 to 10 days for a minimum cure and 15 to 30 days for a full cure.
Guidelines for Use while Curing
- For floors, countertops, and other heavily used surfaces here are some general guidelines for use during the curing time of the tung oil.
- Keeping the surface free from dust, debris, dirt, and liquids during the first 7-10 days of the curing time is paramount. Feel free to move about on the surface with clean socks or rags under shoes. In fact, we encourage this as it ensures that no oil will be left on the surface and this “ice skating” will pick up any oil that may seep to the surface during the curing process.
- Restrain from covering the surface treated with tung oil for extended periods of time. The tung oil needs air exchange in order to cure.
- For countertops and butcher block near sinks, consider covering an area around your sink with wax paper while sink is in use. This will prevent water from splashing onto the surface. Remove wax paper when the sink is not in use.
- Furniture can be moved back onto the floor after 7-10 days of curing time has occurred. Do not put area rugs or furniture items that rest close to the surface until full 30-day cure. These will prevent air flow. Wooden furniture items should have wax paper placed between the legs and the floor to prevent wicking of oil out of the surface.
- For decks and outdoor surfaces, should it rain, remove water from the surface as soon as possible with a broom or leaf blower. Also, check out our Outdoor Defense Oil. A specially formulated option for outdoor finishing needs.
- Remember, a full cure for the tung oil is 30 days. However, the pure tung oil finish will gradually harden over that period of time. Thus more resistance to use can be anticipated in general as the curing time progresses.
- 8oz covers 25sq. feet
- 16oz covers 50sq. feet
- 32oz covers 100sq. feet
- Gallon covers 400sq. feet
- Example: One Gallon would cover 400sq. feet one time.
Hints & Tips
- Do not apply or leave fresh tung oil on surface in direct sunlight. This will flash cure it on the surface and will turn white.
- Do not sand between coats of tung oil. This is an application technique for tung oil varnishes, not pure tung oil.
- Do not use Dark Tung Oil over oil-based sealers, stains, and finishes.
- We recommend using a water-based stain to change the color of the wood before tung oil is applied (if the color other than that provided by tung oil is desired). For a lighter, all natural, tung oil finish check out our Pure Tung Oil and Half & Half products.
- Dark Tung Oil has not been thinned. Thinners can accelerate the drying process and greatly improve the penetration of the tung oil. In most cases, Dark Tung Oil does need to be thinned. We recommend using Citrus Solvent for a natural option, Odorless Mineral Spirits, or mineral spirits. Leave the thining to us by using our Dark Half.
- Do not use the “Green” thinners now being sold. They contain water and will not mix with the oil.
- Remember by adding petroleum mineral spirits or other thinners, the oil may become toxic with these substances mixed into it, although the finish produced is not toxic because the thinners evaporate.
- The number of coats of oil to be applied will be determined by the intended use of the piece. One to two coats is enough for decorative work, paneling and molding. For surfaces that receive moderate to heavy use or handling need a minimum of three and on up to six coats for maximum protection.
- Apply till the surface reaches the saturation point. This will be evident as the surface will not absorb more oil.
- Renewal and/or maintenance coats are thinly applied with lint-free cloths (old bed sheets work well) or old t-shirt material on an as need be basis. A two parts solvent to one part tung oil mixture is recommended for maintenance coats.
- Do not get hung up on the number of coats, let the wood tell you when it has reached its maximum saturation.
- Dark Tung Oil will be in the wood up to the surface not on the wood like varnish or Polyurethane top coat. The end result is more like seasoning a cast iron pan. This product will give you a surface that will stand up to vigorous use and spills: water will bead on the surface.
- After the tung oil as completely cured (30 days) cleaning of the surface can be done using hot water and mild soap, such as dish soap. Avoid using hard chemicals or acids for cleaning.
What its made of
We believe in being honest with what is in our products. So, thats why we provide the ingredients used in them so you can rest assured knowing exactly whats in the product you purchase from us. Its just a way we make it easier on you!
Dark Tung Oil is made of
- Pure Tung Oil
- Resinous Hydrocarbon
- The resinous hydrocarbon used to darken and color the pure tung oil is naturally occurring, non-carcinogenic, and PCB free.