Tung Oil Wood Finish

Enhance character & water resistance with a great finish

The Tung Oil offered by Real Milk Paint is actually a pure oil meaning it comes without any additives or distillates. Most other companies can be anything from a thinned down varnish to polymerized tung oil, and most have petroleum distillates added. Ours will not build a gloss finish or heavy finish, but will penetrate deeply into the wood to enhance character and water resistance while creating a great wood finish.

Click to read more about how to use tung oil.

This makes our tung perfect for uses such as wood bowls, wood counter tops, butcher blocks, cutting boards, chopping blocks, outdoor furniture, decks, wood siding, wood flooring, concrete, brick and just about any porous surface that needs an environmentally friendly product.


  • Zero VOC’s
  • All Natural means “Green”
  • Freshness Guaranteed (fresh pumped daily)!
  • Best Available, Grade 1 yellow
  • Naturally polymerizing finish
  • Cures by oxidation not evaporation
  • Does not form a glossy finish no matter the number of coats
  • Form a flexible water proof finish
  • Resists abrasion and acids
  • Does not blister and peel (properly applied)
  • Does not mold like linseed oil
  • Long shelf life (will last for years, properly sealed)
  • Does not darken with time like linseed oil
  • Concentrated (thin one to one, doubles the coverage)
  • Combined with “Citrus Solvent” makes an all-natural finish
  • FDA approved for food contact
  • Does not go rancid

Pure Tung Oil comes from cold pressing of the seeds or nuts of the Tung tree, which mainly grow in the mountainous regions of China away from industrialization and pollution. Climate, soil and air quality are essential for high quality oil. Ours is 100% Pure Chinese Tung Oil, which is also known as China wood oil and is an all-natural finish manufactured by pressing the tung nut, no petroleum distillates or other additives – just Pure Tung Oil. Some low priced marketers will package South American Tung Oil (dark, greenish in color) and sell it as the higher quality Chinese. Chinese Tung is available in 3 grades, we only offer the best available, Grade 1 yellow. This high quality oil offers superior color, faster drying and a long term elastic finish. Elasticity is an important factor as the oil must continue to flex with the expansion and contraction of the substrate on which it is applied.

See Finished Wood Samples

How Much Do I Need?

  • 8 oz. covers 25 sq. feet | $9.99
  • 16 oz. covers 50 sq. feet | $11.99
  • 32 oz. covers 100 sq. feet | $19.99
  • Gallon covers 400 sq. feet one coat | $55.99
  • 55 Gallon | $1,850.75

This is coverage for the oil only and not diluted with Citrus Solvent.

Learn about our half tung oil and half citrus solvent.

Customer Testimonials

I already applied two coats of your tung-oil on the Warwick body……BANG! The miracle happened! Read more…

I received your premixed Tung Oil and Citrus thinner. It works great. No comparison to the Tung Oil Read more…

Our Guarantee

We guarantee Real Milk Paint’s Pure Tung Oil is ASTM Quality Tested to be light in color with the highest amount of reactive sites to ensure drying and a great wood finish. Only the freshest, highest quality, most costly oil is “Shipped Daily” from our facility. Remember that “Quality is long enjoyed while a cheap price is long endured”. My family and dedicated associates thank you for your support.
All the Best,

Our Pure Tung Oil is packed in semitransparent containers so you can see the natural “Honey” color. Cheaper grades are generally off-color or greenish. Other companies will package generic oils in “white” or colored container to disguise the true color and volume content of the product.

How Fresh is our Pure Tung Oil?

All of our Tung Oils are “fresh” pumped from a drum just before shipping. They are packaged in #2 HDPE recyclable semitransparent bottles with flip top pour caps – except gallon size which does not have a pour top. We have found these tops make working with it a very pleasing experience. Be sure to also see our exclusive Dark Raw Tung Oil.

For new wood floors and refinishing wood floors, applications of Pure Tung Oil must be thinned for the best wood finish. “Floor Finishing and Pure Tung Oil“, “How to Stain Floors” and our newest article “How to Finish Decks and Porches“.

For other applications the following methods should work well, as always test your application method before full application to a large project. We strive to provide the best information and assistance possible. If you have any question or feedback, please call.


Pure Tung Oil was and is one of the first truly “Green” finishes. It is all natural and contains zero VOC’s. Pure Tung oil (China wood oil) is an all-natural finishing product that provides a tough, flexible and highly water-resistant coating or wood finish. It is classed as a drying oil along with linseed, poppy seed, safflower seed, walnut, soybean, oiticica and a few other oils. Although it is relatively new to the Western world, tung oil also known as chinawood oil has been known for centuries to the Chinese, and until this century, China was the main source for the oil. It comes from the seed of the tung trees, Aleurites fordii and Aleurites montana, deciduous trees that are very susceptible to frost damage. This vulnerability has restricted the cultivation of the trees to China and South America. Tung oil (china wood oil) received wide application in China: in the building trades as a treatment for both stone and wooden structures; in marine trades as a preservative and water repellant on wooden boats. It is said to have been introduced to the West by Marco Polo. From the 13th to the 19th century, tung oil had only limited use in the West. More recently, it’s gained favor over linseed oil for wood finishing because it is faster drying and does not darken as much with age.


Tung Oil all natural finish is water and alkali resistant offering a protective barrier. A Pure Tung Oil finish will not darken with age as other finishes will. It resists marring, penetrates well, elastic and unlikely to check. Tung oil builds quickly, consolidates the wood surface and builds a transparent matte finish. Pure Tung Oil finish will not mildew or bleed like linseed oil when dry which makes it an excellent candidate for outdoor finishes. It should be kept in an airtight container with minimum air space. Pure Tung Oil contains no thinners or driers and has a light nutty odor. A Pure Tung Oil finish mixed with Citrus Solvent is an all-natural organic finish that is environmentally safe and food safe.

How to Use Tung Oil

The surface should be dusted to remove all loose particles. For better penetration the oil should be thinned one to one with natural Citrus Solvent. Any wood filling or wood staining (water or alcohol stains work best) must be done before the oil is applied. Using the Pure Tung Oil straight from the bottle would only be for the most thirsty surfaces like old weathered wood, 100 year old wood floors that were never finished or concrete. For the majority of all projects you will thin 50% with thinners for the entire finishing process. The first coat of thinned material should be a liberal one. Apply with a natural bristle brush or sponge brush. Allow this application to sit for a minimum of 40 minutes so the oil can soak in. When it soaks into the wood, apply another coat immediately. Continue to apply coats, one after another, until wood is saturated and stays glossy for a minimum of 40 minutes but can be 1½ hours. If eighty percent of area stays glossy the wood cells are saturated. Then wipe down the surface with clean rag material. Continue to check for any seeping in the next few hours, and rub this off as well. Let soak in completely over night between applications. Do not allow standing oil on the surface overnight. Any standing or puddles oil should be wiped away with clean rags. Hang oil soaked rags up separately to dry. For woods with very dense pores like Teak wood, thin with two parts Citrus Solvent to one part oil will help it absorb better for every coat. Pure Tung Oil will take 7 to 10 days for a minimum cure and 15 to 30 days for a full cure.

Tung oil can be applied pure to very porous surfaces or with Citrus Solvent added if a non-toxic finish is required. Thinners can accelerate the drying process and greatly improve the penetration by cutting the first coat of oil with Citrus Solvent, mineral spirits or turpentine by 50%. Do not use the “Green” thinners now being sold. They contain water and will not mix with the oil. Remember by adding petroleum mineral spirits or turpentine, the oil becomes toxic with these substances mixed into it, although the finish produced is not toxic because the thinners evaporate.

The number of coats of oil to be applied will be determined by the intended use of the piece. Two to four coats are enough for decorative work, paneling and molding. Surfaces that receive moderate to heavy use or handling could need up to six coats for maximum protection, plus a light renewal coats a couple of times a year. Apply till the surface reaches the saturation point. This will be evident as the surface will not absorb more oil. Renewal and building coats are quickly applied with cheese cloth, a lint free cloths (old bed sheets work well). This process will give you a surface that will stand up to vigorous use and spills: water will bead on the surface. Do not get hung up on the number of coats, let the wood tell you when it has reached its maximum saturation. Pure Tung Oil will be in the wood up to the surface not on the wood like varnish or Poly urethane top coat. The end result is more like seasoning a cast iron pan.

Pure Tung Oil is recommended for wood finishing of kitchen tables, chopping blocks,cutting boards, wood and concrete counter tops, wood floors, concrete floors, refinishing wood floors, outdoor decks, outdoor furniture, wood siding, log homes both interior and exterior and similar uses. Its non-toxic nature makes it particularly appropriate for children’s toys and furniture. It gives good protection to wood paneling and molding.

The oil’s matte finish will do nicely on certain pieces of furniture, but if a glossy finish is preferred you will need to buff and wax the finish, or use polymerized tung oil or a formulated tung oil based product over the Pure Tung Oil.

We have found tung oil to be a valuable helper in the workshop. It adheres very well to metal, and a light coat rubbed onto tool steel is an effective rust inhibitor. Wooden handles will also benefit from the occasional coat.

THINNING:  Can be thinned with Citrus Solvent for a all natural finish. Can also be thinned with Mineral Spirits, Paint thinner, Odorless Paint thinner. Do not use the “Green” type paint thinner or odorless paint thinners. These “Green” thinner contain water. They will not mix with the Pure Tung oil or Dark Raw Tung Oil.

TEMPERATURE:  Tung Oil should remain above freezing during and after application for a period of 10 to 15 days. If freezing temperatures do occur it is possible for the fat in the oil to rise out of the oil and deposit on the surface. The warmer the temperature the faster the oil will cure. However direct sunlight baking a surface after a “fresh” application can quickly polymerize the oil and result in a dry rubbery frosted appearance or a distinctly more glossy finish than the surrounding area.

STORING MATERIAL: Stored in moderate temperatures. Do not freeze and do not store in hot places like attics. It should also be stored out of direct sunlight like a mildly heated basement area. A mixture of Pure Tung Oil and Citrus Solvent should be stored in the “White” Citrus Solvent container. These are treated to hold the Solvent for optimum storage.

FDA: Pure Tung Oil is approved for food contact by the FDA. View document.

REFERENCE: Gunstock Finishing and Care by Donald Newell, Bailey’s Industrial Oil and Fat Products – Vol. 1 – 4th edition.

Keep containers tightly closed away from extreme temperature changes and open flames. As with all oils, rags, steel wool or waste soaked with oil, may spontaneously catch fire if improperly discarded. Immediately after use, place the oil soaked material in a sealed water-filled metal container or hang outside separately to dry.

MSDS: View the Material Safety Data Sheet for this product.

At The Real Milk Paint Company we do our best to provide safe products as well as information. However we cannot guarantee that individuals with compromised immune systems or allergies will not have a reaction to our products. We strongly recommend that each person take their own personal responsibility in testing this product for their own personal use.

Learn about our half tung oil and half citrus solvent.

Read about how Tung oil was used to restore a 100 year old floor!

  • William

    I would like to use re-stain my kitchen cabinets. What is your recommendation to get the best finish possible? Fine grit sand paper and then apply the tung oil/citrus solvent ( 1:1 ratio)

    • Sand up to 120 or 150 . Sanding with too fine a grit will case harden the surface and make it hard for the oil to absorb

  • Robert

    Have been using raw crude tung oil for 40+ years and it is by far the finest finish I have ever found. It resists 190 proof alcohol and will build a finish that is so tough you almost can’t stain it.
    Have used up to 600 grit wet sanding techniques for a glossy wood finish before using the pure oil. applied as directed and removing all excess within 1 -2 hours. (black walnut, oak, poplar, teak, ginkgo, cypress, mahogany, Brazilian rosewood)
    Sanding with higher grits does make it harder to get the oil into the wood but the final outcome is well worth the work.
    It will start building an finish over the wood after six to eight coats.
    Yep it does take some time but the best finish is worth the time. (you want fast go get some cheap clear spray finish and it will be ready tomorrow BUT it will not be right or the best)
    If you ever get a scratch, wipe a tiny bit on and the finish is “back”. You can “renew” the finish 30 years later if you need with a single coat.

  • jon

    Any recommendations for finishing a new cherry kitchen table with tung oil? I was planning to go with the 50/50 mix and keep applying daily until it looks ‘done’. The table top is currently sanded to 150 grit. Should I go finer? Should I wet-sand? And if so, at what points?

  • The Shellac will stop the Pure Tung Oil from penetrating . You would be better off using a Polymerized Tung oil over the shellac. We do not have a polymerized

  • Martha , Great story , I love it !!

  • Joshua Mueller

    Hmm… Something went wrong for me. I applied tung oil to some new unfinished eucalyptus wooden furniture. First I rubbed it on blended 50/50 with citrus solvent, then a second coat pure tung oil about a week later. Now about a day after the second coat, there’s an ugly gummy residue finish on top. Any idea how to rectify this? I wiped down excess oil after both coats but I never went back to check if there was any weeping shortly after the second application. Can I maybe wipe away the residue with mineral spirits or with pure citrus solvent?

    • Switching to the Pure Tung Oil is what caused this . As the wood gets full of oil you want to use oil that is thinned even more than 1 to 1 . I would try a scotch bright pad with Citrus Solvent or 00 steel wool . Rub real hard to get the residue off . If this does not work you may need to sand with 150 grit . You can then touch up with 1 to 1 or even 2 parts Solvent to 1 part oil .

  • Rinse out with Citrus Solvent when wet . Then use soap and water to final clean . The old brushes are probably done for , pure tung when dry will only dissolve with paint remover . That would be the only way to save them . Maybe use a paint remover or the Soy Gel http://www.realmilkpaint.com/products/strippers-removers/soygel/

  • Scott Dixon

    I’m about to the finishing stage of a large octagon table for a client. It’s made from knotty Alder. The question I have is when to fill the knot and crack voids. I use clear and black epoxy and usually do this after the piece is stained and sealed and before the last coat of finish (poly or spar varnish type finish) The reason I do it this way is to get the stain color into the voids. With a Tung oil Finish can I do the epoxy after I’ve applied a few coats or would I need to do this first. We didn’t plan on using stain on this piece and would like to have the color of the Tung oil down in the voids so I’m not sure how to proceed. I love to use Tung oil on all my projects if possible. It’s just that some clients can’t wait weeks for a finish to cure. These folks want a natural finish and are willing to be patient enough to get that.
    Thanks for the help

    • Scott , my fear is that after you oil , then epoxy the cracks that the epoxy would not stick well to the oil . You could test this in your shop on scrape wood . Many glues do not like to stick to the Pure Tung Oil

  • As long as you are not getting a film or frosty look then sanding and reapply is just fine . Apply real thin with a rag since you already have filled the wood cells .

    • Sharon Hayes

      Ok, I just reapplied with a rag. Company coming in 2 days so I’ll reapply the dry spots again later…taking too long to cure as I’m active in the kitchen cooking and washing. There are places around the edge which the 50-50 mix will not absorb…assuming that it’s due to these spots having glue on them. What is the best way to rid of the glue (I did sand it lightly earlier today but does not seem to do the trick). Am baffled!

      • If the glue is water base PVA type . You can fold up a paper towel , wet it then apply to the wood . Turn your iron to the hottest setting .Touch the iron to the paper towel and steam the glue , then sand right away . If it is a polyurethane glue then only scraping or sanding will work

    • Sharon Hayes

      Here are pictures of the spot that won’t absorb the oil

      • To me this looks like glue that is stopping the oil from absorbing . You would need to sand through the glue

  • disqus_CW7NGdPCJ9

    I just recently purchased an old cupboard that will be my first refinishing project and came across this tung oil page. The cupboard currently has a redwood colored stain on it. Once the cupboard is cleaned up, could I just add the tung oil right on top of the current stain or should I sand the whole thing first? My daughter wants a darker finish on the furniture. Any suggestions will be appreciated. Picture attached.

    • Do the water test . Put a drop of water on it if it soaks in or the wood changes color . Then it would be ready for the Half & Half Tung Oil and Citrus

  • A Schwent

    Hi there! My husband and I made a rustic looking table out of pine and stained it using a mixture of black tea and vinegar/steel wool. We like the colour that is is now- a rustic grey/brown look. We are wanting to finish it with something fairly waterproof and durable but non toxic for our children while keeping the matte look. We are thinking about using Hemp or Tung oil but have heard that it can bring out more red/yellow tones in the wood and we are hoping to keep to as close to the colour it is now. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thanks. (pictures attached)

    • The best way to test and see what color the Pure Tung Oil will make it is to wet the surface with water . The way it looks wet , but not glossy is about the color you will get . If you would want it a bit darker you could use the Dark Raw Tung Oil .http://www.realmilkpaint.com/products/oils/dark-raw-tung-oil/

      • A Schwent

        Ok thank you very much, and would you recommend using The pure tung oil or the half and half (with citrus solvent) ?

  • Hollie

    I just installed birch countertops in the kitchen and in one bathroom. The contractor who installed the countertops sanded them but I’m unsure of what grit he used. Being the a-hole he is, he claims he doesn’t remember what grit it was. Should I re-sand and if so, with what grit?

    • If you wet the surface with water can you visibly see the sand paper scratches when you look close ?
      If so then I would sand again with a 150 grit

      • Hollie

        I can’t see the scratches even when dry so I think he barely sanded it at all. I did re sand at 150 grit with an electric sander per your comment. Thanks for your help.

  • Ammie Sigars

    after oiling my brazilian walnut floors they are beautiful, but when my dog manages to get into parts of the house he shouldn’t he leaves paw prints from the gravel driveway. What would you suggest I clean this up with? I have used mineral spirits and it works fairly well but I am not sure if this is the best thing to do. I was thinking of waxing the floor to help repel the dust and make it easier to wipe up. Would johnson one step no buff wax work for this purpose?

    • From the MSDS on the Johnson’s it looks like it has a lot of solvents in it and a very thin alkyd ( resin) . This would probably works on the resin would be thin and wear off quick . So reapplying the the Tung Oil if need should be OK . You might also consider our Carnauba Paste Wax . This would leave a protective barrier . Also it can be removed with Citrus Solvent if needed in the future http://www.realmilkpaint.com/products/waxes/clear-carnauba-wax/

  • Stephanie

    I have pulled up the carpeting in my old home to reveal sturdy oak floors that I want to sand down and refinish with tung oil. I have a LOT of staple and nail holes to fill. What type of filler do you recommend under a tung-oil finish?

    • You have two choices to fill the holes . The wood filler I like is Plasticwood Solvent wood filler . Chose a color that is slightly darker then you wood when wet with oil or water. Too light a color will stand out . Pay no attention to the names on the filler can ie Cherry , Walnut ect .
      The other option to fill the holes is with a colored paste wax after you finish the floor . Just rub the wax in heavy to fill the holes and buff of with a soft cloth . Its very fast and easy . Good Old Brown Wax works well for most medium to light color woods .http://www.realmilkpaint.com/products/waxes/brown-wax/

      • Stephanie

        Thanks for the quick reply! Looking forward to bringing these old floors back to life!

  • David

    Does the tung oil produce an odor? I’m considering using it on an unfinished cherry wood bed, but don’t want the sleeper to notice any odors.

  • Mary Kircher

    I applied Tung Oil + Citrus Solvent (1:2) on a new teak vanity yesterday. It turned out splotchy, so I figure I have to go back, sand and reapply the tung oil. How long should I wait to sand the piece and start over. Do I need to sand it below the current oil? Thanks!

    • 2 part Citrus to 1 part Pure Tung , this is correct . You can apply a second coat right away . You would not need to sand between coats unless it was rough . 3 coats should be all the teak will take being so dense

  • Allison, You would only need to sand if the wood felt rough like it needed sanded . You can just spot sand in the rough places . 150 to 220 grit sand paper will work well . If they were Lye dipped then there is no need to use the TSP to clean . Pure Tung Oil will darken the wood some . To get a idea of the color , wet the wood with water . The color you see will be close to what you will get with the Pure Tung Oil . Lye dipping is very hard on the wood . So a good oiling will help the doors tremendously

  • Four to five coats of the Half & Half mix should be enough . No additional top coat or sealer is needed . However if you did want to put something over it , then a oil base is recommended

  • You can sand the oil even when it is wet . Sanding the wet oil into hard to penetrate surface and work well . Also for Teak , I would recommend a two parts Citrus Solvent to one part Pure Tung Oil

  • Just the cured Pure Tung Oil is enough protection . However you can wax to add more sheen . A wipe on oil poly can go over it after 10 days . Burnishing Paste also would work after 10 days as well

  • Kathie

    We just sanded 100+ year old yellow pine floors and are getting ready to use tung oil as the finish. How long must you wait before walking on floors?

    • You can walk on it right away as long as your shoes are clean . Be careful of tracking on to other surfaces . For the nest 5 days after the last coat , put some rags on the floor, step on them and ice skate around . This will polish the floor and pick up loose oil .

  • Phil , try sanding in the wet oil with the last grit paper you used on the wheel

  • A one to one ratio will be right for all the coats . So the Half & Half will be perfect . About 5 coats should be enough . 150 grit is fine . Wait about 10 to 15 days before placing the grill

  • Mike

    Hi Real Milk Paint staff,

    Just ask your opinion, Is it possible to make a tung oil paint ? There is a Linseedoil paint out there, why there is no tung oil paint ? Because both oil are drying oil that is the major property to use them as a binder.

    • Mike , Sure you can , just add pigment to the oil , more Citrus Solvent to make it flow . The pigments tend to settle to the bottom so keep stirring .

  • Robert

    Can you use the half and half to water seal porus tile floors and grout joints?

  • Jen Smith

    Hi Real Milk Paint – I used your tung oil to stain a table and although i do really like your product, i am not thrilled with the resulting look on this particular table. I wanted to try to use your milk paint and maybe water it down to create a color stain look. Can i use the milk paint over the tung oil if i sand down the table well? Thanks for any info you can give me:)

    • I would sand well . Then add Ultra Bond to the milk paint . Then it will stick

  • Slawrencebradley@yahoo.com

    Help! I need to remove one coat of Waterlox original Tung oil. Has mineral spirits and linseed oil in it.
    Floor is 400 square feet will the soy-gel do the trick?

  • Greg

    I finished some new pine chairs with the 50/50 citrus tung oil mix about 10 days ago, 4 coats, but they still feel wet. Any suggestions?

    • Keep wiping if there is any oil seeping to the surface . The warmer the temperature the faster it will cure . A hot garage or shed . Do not put sun . It dose take 7 to 10 days for the minimal cure time . 15 to 30 days full cure

  • Andrea

    I love your product! I did an initial application on our cherrywood kitchen countertops a year ago (or more) and want to renew the finish. What are the steps for renewal? Should I sand before I apply the tung oil/citrus solvent? How many coats should I expect to do? Also, we noticed that there were scratches in the surface after the first time we used it, perhaps from appliances being moved across the surface or someone cutting with a knife. Does this mean we applied too much product?

    • Sand only if you feel you need to . Use a two parts Citrus Solvent to one part Pure Tung Oil and wipe on real thin . May be one or two coats . These coats should soak in . By scratches do you mean scuff marks ? If you get hazy scuff marks this is oil drying in the surface . Buff the marks off real hard with course cloth

      • Andrea

        Thank you! The scratches look like knife cuts in the wood finish except that we don’t use knives directly on the surface so we thought perhaps it was caused by an appliance. Could it be due to an excess build up of tung oil?

        • Could be , rub real hard with a scrub pad or course cloth . Wipe a small bit of oil on if needed real thin

  • Matt

    I just finished a project (last coat was four days old) and someone set a hot coffe cup on top of a paper towel thinking it would protect it. I think the heat raised the grain as it left white rings with a rough texture. Think they will go away? Suggestions?

    • Probably will not go away . Take a hot iron and a brown paper bag . Lay the bag on the surface , use the hot iron in a fast circular motion on the paper bag . Lift the paper frequently and check to see the vapors steam out of the surface . When the white disappears , sand lightly then re oil with Half & Half

  • Mark

    Two years ago I installed maple and birch butcher block countertops. I have treated the maple tops with straight mineral oil and the Birch with a mineral oil/beeswax mixture. Is there anything other than sanding the tops that I should do before applying the pure tung oil? Thanks!

    • Clean with Citrus Solvent and a scrub pad . Then wipe dry with clean paper towels . Let dry . If the wood looks dry then you can start to oil

  • Heather Maloney

    I have an old teak bench that is in rough shape. I’ve sanded and am almost ready to finish it. Will half and half do the job? What can I do for UV protection, as this is an outdoor piece?

    • Half & Half will work fine . Unfortunately there are not any UV inhibitors if the finish wear away it will gray . If you keep the finish up then the wood will not age

      • Heather Maloney

        Can I use a UV inhibitor as a top coat? What would work with the tung oil?

        • Most UV inhibitors are not clear . They are colored . This is why stains say they contain UV inhibitors . I have not found a clear UV inhibitor that will work in the pure tung oil that is not toxic . If you find something please let us know . You could top coat with another oil finish or varnish .

          • Heather Maloney

            That’s what my research has been turning up. I might top coat with varnish. I can’t wait to see how the tung oil looks on the teak! Thanks for your help!

      • Jo

        Hi Real Milk Paint,
        Do you mean, we need to recoat the pure tung oil periodically to keep the finish up then the wood will not age, is it right ? Thanks,

        • The wood can still darken or lighten from UV light but it should not turn gray from oxidation if the finish is maintained

  • David Ludlow

    I am making an oak plywood countertop for my bathroom. Should I use the tung oil for all surfaces or just the top? And should it go on neat or mixed with citrus solvent?

    • You can use it on the whole project . The 50 / 50 mix works best . You want this ratio for plywood because the wood thin veneer

  • The Tung Oil should be pretty cured by this point . You can use Clear Carnauba Paste Wax as a barrier . Also you could top coat with a polymerized tung oil such as Waterlox or Watco . But once you use these types of finish then they also need to used for maintenance.

  • The paper is the test for curing . You should be very close now . You can usually put a coat of Clear Carnauba Paste Wax in 10 to 15 days of curing . You can top coat with a polymerized tung oil like Waterlox or Watco . But once these type of finishes are used they must be used to maintain the piece

  • Was this raw wood ? Did you wipe off excess oil that did not soak in ? Rub it down real hard with a green scrub pad or 0000 steel wool . You could also sand with 320 grit . Then to clean it up again , rub real thin coat on with a rag

  • He probably used a polymerized tung oil or a tung oil varnish if it is glossy . Pure tung oil would not be a able to soak in through this type of finish . The only way to tell of our products will work is to do a water test . If a drop of water soaks in then you can use our products

  • We have had many customers use one or two coats of Pure Tung , allow to dry a couple of days . Then use a polymerized finish . This can give the wood great depth of color