Coverage
- Sample oz. covers 1 sq. foot
- 16 oz. covers 50 sq. feet
- 32 oz. covers 100 sq. feet
- Gallon covers 400 sq. feet
- Example: One Gallon would cover 400 sq. feet one time.
Directions
There are four phases when it comes to using Outdoor Defense Oil (ODO) for your projects.
- Preparation
- Application
- Curing
- Maintenance
Preparation
- The best operating temperature for applying Outdoor Defense Oil is above 50°F ( 10°C ).
- Be sure the surface of your project is free of dust, debris, or grime.
- Check to see if the surface is porous. (Outdoor Defense Oil works by absorbing into the material and filling the open pores. Therefore, if your material is not porous, it will not accept ODO. To test if your surface is porous or not, place a small amount of water on the surface. If the water absorbs, it is porous. If it does not and beads on the surface, you may need to sand and/or strip the surface.)
- If you are sanding your surface, we recommend not going above 220 grit sandpaper. Too high of a sandpaper grit will “polish” the surface, hindering proper absorption of ODO.
- If stripping your surface is needed, we recommend using Soy Gel: Paint and Urethane Stripper.
- We recommend using water or alcohol-based stains on the wood before the ODO is applied. Most oil-based stains should be avoided as they tend to seal the wood and prevent absorption of ODO. Another option is to use our Dark Half on the surface for the initial coat(s) then apply ODO for the remainder of the project.
- DO NOT use a wood conditioner. This will seal the wood and prevent the tung oil from absorbing.
- NOTE: Only very old, dry wood or concrete tend to use unthinned Pure Tung Oil.
- You may need to thin your ODO depending on the type of wood you are using it on. Extremely dense woods such as teak, ipe, etc may require thinning ODO with more solvent (up to 2 parts solvent to 1 part tung oil. Outdoor Defense Oil is already at a 1 to 1 ratio of solvent to tung oil) You can use Citrus Solvent as a natural, food contact safe thinner!
Application
When applying Outdoor Defense Oil (ODO), here’s a handy thing to remember: Apply, Absorb, Repeat or Remove
Apply – Apply the ODO to the surface.
Absorb – Let the oil absorb into the material.
Repeat – Do what you just did, apply the oil and let it absorb.
Remove – When the oil isn’t absorbing and pooling on the surface, remove it with a rag.
Cure – Let the tung oil go through its natural curing process.
For the best results, you want to saturate the material with the tung oil to the point where a majority of the surface is no longer absorbing the oil. This will look like puddles on the surface even after waiting 40 minutes. Just like a sponge, the wood (or other porous surfaces) will only absorb so much oil before it can’t anymore. This saturation is achieved by doing multiple coats.
You can apply ODO with a brush, rag, roller, or even a pump sprayer depending on your project and needs. We recommend brushes and/or foam rollers for most projects.
- Apply a generous first coat.
- Let the tung oil absorb into the surface, waiting if needed, up to 40 minutes.
- Apply another coat, let it absorb, and repeat the previous steps.
- Continue this process until you reach the desired amount of coats or have fully saturated the wood. You can tell the wood is saturated when the oil puddles on the surface and no longer absorbs oil across a majority of the surface. To be sure, wait 40 minutes. If the oil is still puddling, then you will know the surface is saturated.
- Taking a clean rag or cloth, remove any excess tung oil that is puddling or pooling on the surface.
- Hang those oil-soaked rags outdoors to dry. DO NOT pile the rags or put them in a container.
For the best finish, we recommend letting this application rest and settle overnight. The following day, apply one or two more coats of ODO to the surface of your project, following the same steps outlined above.
Curing
Outdoor Defense Oil (ODO) does not contain any additives to speed the drying time process, such as heavy metallic dryers. Because of this, it is not considered fast-drying oil and can take up to 30 days to completely/thoroughly cure by its natural polymerization process. Provided below are some guidelines to follow during the curing phase.
- ODO cures best in warm, well-ventilated places. The warmer and more ventilated the area, the faster it will cure.
- Placing objects on the surface will “suffocate” and prevent the tung oil from curing properly. If there is no airflow between the surface and the object, it should be removed until the curing is complete (30 days).
- During the first 7-15 days of curing, you can use the surface. However, you will want to avoid getting it dirty or allowing liquids to puddle on the surface.
- As the tung oil cures, its durability and resistance to liquids and dirt will also increase. The first 7-15 days is when the oil is at its freshest and weakest state. After that point, increased regular use of the surface can take place.
- As ODO cures, it slightly expands and may push fresh oil back to the surface. Check for oil that may be seeping to the surface and remove it, if found, with a rag.
For butcher block, wood countertops, indoor floors, and etc.
For outdoor decks, siding, and other wooden surfaces
- Freezing temperatures can affect the curing of tung oil. You will want to delay your project until the temperatures will be above freezing for a minimum of two weeks during the curing of the tung oil.
- Do not apply the ODO to your wood surface in direct sunlight. The heat from the sun will flash polymerize the tung oil while it is on the surface.
- Try to apply ODO when rain is not in the forecast for a week or two. None of us can control the weather and should it rain on your newly oiled deck don’t worry. As soon as possible, remove the water from the surface using a leaf blower or a broom. You just want to prevent the water from staying on the newly finished surface.
Maintenance
The beautiful thing about an Outdoor Defense Oil finish is that the maintenance of it is easy. We recommend cleaning the surface with mild soap and hot water. Avoid using harsh chemicals, acids, or strong solvents to clean the surface.
Maintenance coats are on an as-need basis. Outdoor projects may require more maintenance than indoor. Heavily used areas can be expected to require more maintenance than lightly used areas. Typically, surfaces that need maintenance have a very dry, or lackluster appearance compared to when the finish was originally applied.
When doing a maintenance coat you do not need to sand the surface again. Here is what we recommend:
- Make sure the surface is clean and free of dust or debris.
- Make a 2 to 1 ratio of solvent to tung oil (2 parts solvent, 1 part tung oil). This thinned mixture can easily find any open pores and fill them.
- Thinly apply this mixture using a clean cloth. Simply wipe it onto the surface, no need to lather it on.
- Wipe up any excess oil that may be on the surface with a clean, lint-free rag or cloth.
- Allow this thin coat to cure for 24 hours.
- Hang oil-soaked rags outdoors to dry.
- Go back to enjoying the surface like normal!
Storage
Outdoor Defense Oil can last with ease for multiple years on the shelf. Here are some guidelines to help you store it properly so it can be used for your next project.
- Make sure the lid on the Outdoor Defense Oil packaging is tightly screwed on. This will keep air exchange from happening in the container.
- Store the bottle in a dry, moderate temperature environment. A place where it won’t freeze or become excessively hot. Freezing of the oil will make the natural fats separate from the oil. Excessive heat can cook the oil to the point where it cures in the bottle.
Want to be an Outdoor Defense Oil pro? Check out the Hints & Tips section!
Don’t know which oil to use for the specific wood species you’re working with? This infographic should help answer that query! Use the guide below to locate the wood species you are working with. Then, use the color field to see which oil would be best to use for that wood species. This guide focuses mainly on common North American wood species. If your project wood is not listed, use the Janka Scale on the right-hand side to find a wood with a similar rating to yours.
Click here to view the Oil Thinning Infographic
How much oil do I need?
No need to crunch numbers! Our handy oil calculator will help you figure out how much you need! To get started, enter the dimensions of the surface(s) you’re finishing (in feet).
For example, to finish two rooms you would add the width and length of each floor. Enter a single floor dimension, click “add area”, then enter the next floor dimension and watch the math take place.
What its made of
We believe in being honest with what is in our products. So, thats why we provide the ingredients used in them so you can rest assured knowing exactly what’s in the product you purchase from us. It’s just a way we make it easier on you.
Dark Half is made of
- Pure Tung Oil
- Zinc
- Pine Oil (Essential Oil)
What is…?
- Pure Tung Oil is approved for food contact by the FDA. View document.
- Zinc is used as a UV inhibitor and mildewcide. Its often found in sunburn skincare products.
- Pine oil is a naturally occurring terpene hydrocarbon. Terpenes are naturally occurring 10-carbon organic molecules manufactured in nature by green plants. They are the raw materials for many of the flavors and fragrances enjoyed by man. Most terpenes are designated GRAS (Generally Recognized As Safe) by the FDA and FEMA (Flavor Extracts Manufacturing Association) and are approved for human consumption in foods. The pine tree is the world’s largest commercial source of terpenes, the volatile oil from the tree, the largest volume of essential oil found in nature.
Download the Outdoor Defense Oil Safety Data Sheet